History mentions, Lampung textile art already know since the 18th century. Range of the textile art among other Lampung fabricfilters (woven ikat), pawns, sebage, selekap, teppal, cindai, peleppai (patterned fabric of the ship), and the tray. But most people know of tapis Lampung. tapis fabric ( ikat weaving from lampung is tapis) is a type of traditional handicrafts in Lampung society harmonizing his life good for the environment as well as the creator of the universe. Tapis fabric used as tribal women’s clothing fabric Holster-shaped Float made of woven cotton yarn with motif or decoration materials sugi, threads of silver or gold thread embroidery system. This fabric is usually used at the waist down glove-shaped
Development of batik motif lampung began in about 1970 by ahumanist lampung i.e. Andrean Sangaji said could join the popularize batik motif of boat and batik motif “tree of life” are strongly influenced by the culture of hindu-Buddhistpast. Lampung batik motifs that developed at this time was the motif of batik lampung modification or creations to add to the richness of the range of motifs of lampung batik, indonesia batik lovers in order to have many options such as gamolan motif, butterfly, siger, and elephants
Batik lampung appears because the idea of one of the old Javanese population settled in the region of lampung i.e. Gatot Kartiko with creative ideas to develop the pattern or motifs from traditional woven fabric filters fabric namely lampung and siger. Development of batik lampung quite rapidly when it began to be worn by former gubernut father Sjachroedin Z.P. lampung meaning and philosophynot as in lampung batik batik of Java in General, more to thewealth of motifs that demonstrate lampung identity itself. If reviewed from the point of history, does not demonstrate lampung facts of history that mengurucut to a culture here in the past, so batik lampung there because developed on the basis of the business that accentuate the characteristic area of the city of lampung itself as well as on batik jember created due to business factors combined with the characteristic of the city. Batik lampung more popular when worn by the former President of INDONESIAwho so love the batik indonesia Mr. Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. Variety of batik lampung if review of the manufacturing process, there are 3 types of batik, handwriting batik(batik tulis), stamped batik (batik cap), and batik with motif full of lampung. The price of a piece of batik cloth this float is similar to batik prices generally range from IDR 75000 range up to a million more, depending on the type of fabric batik itself.
Wisdom became the core of the philosophy of nitik motif batik karawitan. Thus, the wearer will hopefully be wise. That is why elderly people in its surroundings many use this motif batik.
Batik Motif gurda also did not escape the past belief. Garuda is a mount of Lord Vishnu is known as the Sun God. Garuda became a mount of Lord Vishnu and serve as a symbol of the Sun. By Javanese, garuda as symbols of life as well as a symbol of virility.
Batik Motif Meru
The word is derived from the mountain meruMahameru. The mountain is considered to be the place of residence or the throne for the Tri Murti, namely Sang Hyang Vishnu, Brahma, and Sang Hyang Sang Hyang Shiva. Tri Murti is denoted as the source of all life, prosperity, and any source source of happiness to live in the world. Therefore, the meru used as motifs so that the wearer is always getting prosperity and happiness.
When you come back to see how the existence of the batik of bali, then in fact there have been changes and begins since the era of the 1970s. However with the industry, batik is still makin squirm in. 1997.
However, in fact, batik fabric himself has also enliven the excitement related noise. This is mainly a matter of bali as a location described as paradise of the world due to the exotic nature having as well as tempting people to visit the place.
Moreover, with the appearance of batik design, it had its own uniqueness among all facets of batik fabric in Indonesia. bali batik fabric was not simply incarnate as a headband, but has been so collectibles which can be obtained by anyone.
bali batik fabric motif and design is a very rich and full of variation interest want to collect this batik. This subject is also increasingly popular bali batik fabric as well as in the market as well as getting good responses from some batik lovers in the market.
Meanwhile there is also mention that the existence of bali batik fabric craft industry began since th. 1970s. the art of batik is spearheaded by pande ketut krisna tegeha, banjar village from sukawati, gianyar, bali.
at that time, the introduction of fixed batik is done by very manual. batik weaving techniques and retain the cap/tjap using a technique with loom manuals (ikat weaving). at this time we are more familiar with the term “Alat Tenun Bukan Mesin (ATBM)”.
This batik fabric change itself has been more and more popular as well as a natural fusion of very fast. This subject has been due to the growing number of batik fabric industry as well as provide a range of typical Balinese batik style motifs. do not miss also sorts of shades blend of Balinese batik such as bali-papua batik, bali-pekalongan batik, etc.
causes of Fusion on the other hand is not and does not just because, as we know that the island of the gods was very much touched various entrants who then gave the turn itself also in the subject system of the batik. This subject deals with all existence of the island.
Moreover, Balinese batik is favoured by international market share because of the bright colors and hand dye-colouring, especially in the USA, Canada, UK and australia there are quilting batik fabric of bali which has its own market segmentation, because different quilting batik fabric with other textile from rotary mechine
Eliza van Zuylen is is one of maestro batik in Indonesia, a Netherlands citizen who lived between 1863-1947. Here is one picture of Eliza van Zuylen batik work. Batik works of Eliza van Zuylen are mostly patterned floral bouquet, which was later widely known as Van Zuylen Bouquet.
Batik Netherlands began to develop between the years 1840-1940, in general the batik cloths Netherlands holsters that are just made for The Netherlands Netherlands descendants &. There are many types of Batik in coastal areas, for example in the area of Pekalongan. Most of the patterns in the Netherlands including Batik patterns buketan. One of them is the famous batik works of Eliza buketan Van Zuylen.
On the development of batik, batik Netherlands Eliza van Zuylen is recognized as a top copyright batik works of Netherlands. Because batik Eliza van Zuylen offers the highest level of complexity both in terms of the typical motif and detail, as well as in terms of colorful of the resulting color. Most of Van Zuylen Eliza-style batik buketan, to produce a colorful flower pattern on it Eliza buketan Van Zuylen by using synthetic color substances so that the resulting colour is more diverse. While the tinting process is also done by painting and dipped for a time in machining process efficiency.
The Influence Of Chinese Motifs In Batik Eliza Van Zuylen
Eliza van Zuylen also perform various development patterns, for instance by combine his buketan style with elements of Chinese culture, since at that time already began to appear also in Arabic and Chinese batik in Java. Chinese cultural elements are visible on the emerging pattern of lilies, peacocks and detail isen-isen is more complicated on the buketan design. The colors shown on the hand becomes more diverse and bright, still using synthetic dyes.
Carolina Josephine van Franquemont is Netherlands women were touted as the first Netherlands citizens established a batik factory in Indonesia. In the hands of Caroline-lah, stands a batik factory in Surabaya in 1840 that would later become part of the history of the development of batik in Indonesia, particularly the coastal batik.
Caroline, who eventually migrated from Surabaya to Semarang, bringing the influence of bright batik patterns, dynamic, and more life into the batik pattern. The pattern of coastal batik is very different compared to the style of the Kraton Jogjakarta and Solo batik. Coastal Batik is considered more “recalcitrant” for daring to display bright colors and lights up, much different when compared batik keraton coaster and tend to rely on ground colors.
As the people of Europe that has not forgotten its cultural, Caroline poured a traditional European stories into his hand. Call it Hanzel and Gretel or Red Riding Hood, two of the many monumental works of Caroline.
Belanda batik or Dutch batik emerged and developed between 1840 and 1940, almost always in the form of a sarong and initially made only for the Indo-Dutch, Dutch and Eurasians, and in the coastal region (Pekalongan) mainly.
Most Dutch batik displays the combination of a bouquet of flowers, or a flowering tree, birds, especially herons, geese, and small birds, and butterflies. This type of combination has also been made with Chinese or Javanese ornamentation. Dutch batik colors have always been clear, according to the European taste. The drawings were presented clearly, ranging from flowers and animals to airplanes, buildings and human forms. There were drawings with themes inspired by tales European, such as Red Riding Hood, snow white, and Hansel and Gretel and even the goddess Hsi Wang Mu, a design influenced by Chinese culture, the puppet, a puppet and shadow circus design.
The environment, also, had an impact on domestic product Dutch batik: batik of the Court saga – Brown continued to be the choice of the main color. The natural environment that encompassed the atmosphere of the Court imbued with a batik Interior shade Dutch court, thus. Dutch Batik is more attractive in appearance, because – as with the Dutch coastal batik its high level of refinement, retail, harmony. The porters, who were originally limited to the Dutch environment, then expanded to include Chinese and Javanese aristocracy.
The first company of Dutch batik, owned by Caroline Joséphine von Franquemont, was created in 1840 Surabaya and Semarang later. Franquemont was famous for the discovery of a fast green dye obtained from the natural colouring matter. This colour became known as green Franquemont
How to process?
There are three kinds of batik : handwritten, stamp and handprinting.
Compared to others, it is more exclusive/luxurious and expensive. It is because of the need of skill, experience, carefulness, patient, and much time in its process. A batik maker takes a month to process it (the fastest time) in condition like: a good weather, common pattern and not too sophisticated. For making more complex batik, it needs 3-6 months. Here are the phases in processing:
- It is “ngrengsi” making pattern and design on material. It is drawn using a pencil.
- Draw using a wax and canting – small dipper used to apply wax in batik process- it is made by following the pattern drawn with a pencil on the both side –back to back-.
- “nyolet” is painting with brush or canvas for the need of certain color on the area wanted. It is made by following the pattern drawn by a pencil.
- Cover any uncolored parts with a wax. It has an intention to avoid a color mixing for the next coloring/ngerek.
- Making color on the material which not covered by wax. It is made by dipping it using a certain color/ngerek
After dipping, it is dried in the sun, and let it dry. Then, repeat the previous process/the second step, next, it is “nglorot” omit wax from the material by putting on vessel and using hot water, boiling in a high temperature. After clean from wax, let it dry and back to previous process -covering using a wax in order to withstand the first and second color- Wax open and close process can be made repeatedly in accordance to the number of color and complexity of design wanted. The last process is clean the material using clean water, and dry in the sun before wearing.
The stamp used is made of metal in which there is a pattern. Hence, it is not required much time to process stamp batik, just takes 10 days and able to produce batik in a large, it is easier and simpler. Here are the following manners:
- Making a pattern/design wanted on white material. It was made by stamping. Don’t forget to dip it first into hot wax which put on vessel and press it on material.
- First color process. Dip material -which free from wax- into certain color. Dry in the sun and let it dry. Then, back to batik process-draw using wax and canting to cover the first color- it is forbidden to use a stamp when making color covering process.
- Keep on dipping to make the second color. Then, omit the wax from the material by putting on a fair place with hot water.
- After cleaning and drying, back to batik process: keep the first and second color using wax and canting. The opening and closing process can be done repeatedly based on the number of color and the complexity of design wanted.
- Wash batik, dry in the sun, let it dry before wearing.
It is also called “screening batik” because of the similarity on its process. design and color has been made or designed on the offset/screening. Therefore, it is easier when processing. The manners are:
- First coloring process, started by making a pattern/design wanted on white material using silk-screening. Keep on repeating to create the second color as well as to create batik combination.
- Dry under the sun light or put it in special oven. Usually, leave it for 2-3 days so that the drug can absorb in material.
- There are two options: steam using a vapor on a high temperature or use a chemical, water glass. It has a purpose to stick and keep the color on material and to avoid discolored.
- “nglorot” omit a wax from material, and dry in the sun
- If the material is in a good condition (no stain) it should be washed and rinsed using clean water about 3-5 times. On the contrary, if it is stained, it should be washed by using a liquid shampoo (a tablespoon for 3 liter) and then, dip it.
- Please don’t rub when washing and don’t use any kind of detergent. We can use a soap or orange leather to clean the heavy stain.
- Please never use a washing machine, especially for silk material
- It is advised not to dry in the sun.
- It is forbidden to squeeze before drying. However, we can put in order carefully when drying.
- It is advised to put another material on which when ironing
- If you would like to use freshener or softener, cover it by a paper first, and spread out inside to avoid any stain
- Keep it in plastic and don’t give camphor for safety. It is a good idea if we use a pepper to avoid an animal attack (kind of insect). There is also another way, by using fragrance root which dip into hot water first, and then dry, repeat again. We are ready to use it when it is in arid condition
- In certain batik, generally, it will be discolor when washing for the first time, but don’t be afraid because it will be steady for the next